Low-fire clays are great for bright colors and detailed decoration. But they’re not super good in water, so if you do go for low-fire clay, get a glaze that you know will seal ’er up. High-fire clays aren’t so great with bright colors, but they’re sturdy, waterproof, and can be texturized easily. Glazes may move when fired, so detailed images could get blurred. [3] X Research source

Potter’s wheel: Best for bowls or plates, vases or anything you need to be symmetrical and round, it takes a lot of practice to get really skillful at this. [5] X Expert Source Deanna RanlettPottery & Ceramics Professional Expert Interview. 12 November 2021. It also requires a kiln and knowledge of firing and glazes. It’s good for large and small objects, but again it is tough to rework if mistakes happen initially. Pinching by hand: Best for small objects. [6] X Expert Source Deanna RanlettPottery & Ceramics Professional Expert Interview. 12 November 2021. The method is fairly straightforward: Start off with a small amount of clay that you can work with in your palms. Mold it with pressure from your thumb and index finger and keep turning it in your other palm if you want it round, and keep the “walls” even. [7] X Expert Source Natasha Dikareva, MFACeramics & Sculpting Instructor Expert Interview. 5 May 2020. Use a damp sponge to smooth the surface. Coiling:[8] X Expert Source Deanna RanlettPottery & Ceramics Professional Expert Interview. 12 November 2021. Best for hollow or non symmetrical objects. You can create an interesting texture or pattern by or coiling layers together. Instead of one block of clay, you simply pile or coils into a shape. [9] X Expert Source Natasha Dikareva, MFACeramics & Sculpting Instructor Expert Interview. 5 May 2020. They adhere together with slip and create one mass. Slab making: Best for flat-sided objects. [10] X Expert Source Deanna RanlettPottery & Ceramics Professional Expert Interview. 12 November 2021. You put the sides of the clay onto a form. Use a plastic bag so it won’t stick or use a light coating of cooking oil. As it dries remove it from the original form, it will shrink and possibly crack if left draped over a bowl but it will maintain its shape.

Some clays aren’t able to be molded, shaped back into a ball, and molded again. So when you make your choices, be careful – your clay may not be too keen on giving you a second chance.

Allow the temperature to drop and remove the pottery 48 hours later after the temperature has completely cooled. Bisque temperature is approximately 1,850–1,950 °F (1,010–1,070 °C) for a cone 06-04 firing for bisque. Cone 6 is 2,180–2,232 °F (1,193–1,222 °C) and Cone 10 is 2,300–2,400 °F (1,260–1,320 °C).

If your surface isn’t smooth, use a 100 grit sandpaper or a kitchen paring knife edge to make it so. Then sponge the entire surface of the pot to remove any dust left from sanding to provide a clean surface for the glaze to adhere to. Glazing takes on a number of forms. You can dip, brush, sponge, or etch – just to get the list started. Use wax to keep the bottom from getting glaze on it during firing. You can also buy glazes in liquid or dry form. If you want to be a real pro, eventually you can make your own.

Overnight, warm up your kiln at very low heat. Spend two hours at low heat (an increase in temperature of no more than 200°F per hour) and then two hours at medium heat (an increase in temperature of no more than 300°F per hour). Finally, finish at high heat (an increase in temperature of 300 to 400°F per hour) until the required temperature has been reached.

Add felt onto the bottom of your object if you so desire. Then, admire your finished product!